In Tunis, a palace transformed into a minimalist residence by John Pawson

In Tunis, a palace rehabilitated by John Pawson

Twenty years ago, a Parisian consultant fell in love with Tunis and bought this traditional dar (Tunisian palace) located in the medina. The old city, whose foundation dates back to the 7th^e century, is one of the oldest in the Maghreb, the fortress of the powerful dynasties that succeeded each other. With its souks, mausoleums, monuments and gates, the medina of Tunis is one of the best preserved in the Islamic world. Listed as a World Heritage Site since 1979, with its winding streets and its approximately 100,000 inhabitants, the old town may seem like an incongruous choice to set up your holiday home. But the heart has its reasons…

Abandoned palace

Like all the beautiful residences in the medina, this dar is at the bottom of a cul-de-sac. Beyond an imposing wooden paneled door, a winding passage leads, through a series of gates, to an inner courtyard. This volume of nine square meters, above which stretches the azure sky, recalls the minimalist works of Donald Judd. The orange tree in leaf, which sits in the middle of the courtyard, contrasts with the rigor of the place, offering its owners shade, a delicate perfume and, when the season comes, a succulent marmalade of bitter oranges.

In the dining room, everything in a green, stone monolith acts as a partition and provides storage. In the evening, candles illuminate small alcoves.

Simon Watson

In the living room, the oval table by Hans Wegner and stools by Eero Saarinen interact with the 17th century tiles.^e century that decorate the ground.

Photo Simon Watson / Direction Paola Moretti

This house, bought by the former postman and his wife, who lived there alone since their children left, had only running water from the well, and a spartan electrical installation. Dilapidated but enchanting decor. On the first floor, abandoned since the Second World War, you could still read graffiti left by German soldiers. The proximity of the great Zitouna mosque indicates that this dar was once the home of a qadi, one of the religious magistrates who played a key role in the Islamic city. The necessary reconstruction work lasted three years.

The office, upstairs, adjoins the guest room. On an iron table with a marble top designed by John Pawson, a lamp by Ingo Maurer. Around, stools by Eero Saarinen.

Simon Watson

In the master bedroom, the bed is covered with a Brazilian wool blanket. The Fun pearl pendant light, by Verner Panton, originates from the 1970s.

© Simon Watson

The alley adjoins the large souk, materials were transported only on Sundays, the only day of rest for this huge market. Finding a way to reach the terrace was another challenge, due to the six meter high ceilings and the old impassable staircase. John Pawson then had the idea to knock down some of the walls in the kitchen to leave enough room for a sculptural staircase that embraces certain codes of traditional architecture. Enclosed in white walls, the staircase creates a dialogue between light and shadow and sheds contemporary light on this ancestral arrangement. Throughout the palace, empty spaces and full spaces are organized around this pivot which is the courtyard, both a crossing and a living space in its own right.

A traditional paneled door leads to the guest wing. Each of the knockers has a function, on the left for men, on the right for women, and below for children. That way we know who’s knocking at the door.

Simon Watson

In the bedroom, the shower is hidden behind a parallelepiped that contains a dressing room. The stone sink was designed by John Pawson. The moldings originate from the 17th century^e century

Simon Watson

Roof terrace overlooking the medina

John Pawson was interested in the history and architectural techniques of the medina. Here, the four mirrored doors from the courtyard open to long, narrow rooms with high ceilings, with lots of ribbed moldings and beams. The courtyard also opens to a second wing of the house, where there is a hammam still under construction, a bedroom and, upstairs, a living room. The patio table and benches, designed by John Pawson expressly for the region, were made by Tunisian craftsmen from local stone, as were the sinks, bathtubs and beds. Impressive stone monoliths serve as partitions and double as discreet storage areas and dressing rooms.

The courtyard, with its typical Tunisian mosaics. Men from outside the family are not allowed in the center of the house, the guest wing is always on the first floor.

Simon Watson

The hammam is located on the ground floor, in a wing served by the courtyard as well as the living room and one of the bedrooms. The natural canvas of the reading light mattress dialogues with the stucco of the walls.

Simon Watson

Crossing the courtyard, you access the kitchen, almost completely open to the outside, as well as the stairs that lead to the terraces. Thus we reach the workshop-library of the owner, with his room overlooking the courtyard. By stairs, we reach the place dearest to the heart of the owner: a terrace on the roofs, furnished with kitchen and shower above the medina. With their tiles, their blue doors and the courtyard, the caretaker’s quarters recall the spirit of the place. The quietness reveals nothing about the frenzied activity of the souk, even though it is located a few steps away. Only the calls of the muezzin come from time to time to punctuate this wonderful abode.